Trekking In Turkey

Our journey begins in the heart of the surreal, almost unearthly landscapes of Cappadocia. Here amongst the ‘Fairy Chimneys’ and white tufa cliffs we will spend our time exploring one of the most remarkable settings on earth. Our base for the first couple of days is the small town of Goreme, an ideal setting from which to venture out to explore the famous cave cities and monastic settlements of the area.

Overnight Standard Hotel

We begin this incredible adventure this morning with a walk through the volcanic landscapes of the Akvadi Valley (White Valley), whose soft tufa landscapes were formed following the eruption of three volcanoes some 10 million years ago. Time and natural erosion has then set about creating the unearthly landscape we see before us today, a world straight from the pages of a fairy story. This afternoon then sees us exploring the Uchisar region with its slender pillars of tufa and rock, the famed ‘Fairy Chimneys’ that this area is renowned for. The village of Uchisar itself nestles around a towering rock that is riddled with cave dwellings and dominated by the medieval fortress that occupies the rocky outcrop above, affording us some stunning views across the surrounding countryside. We’ll also spend the latter part of the day exploring the aptly named ‘Pigeon Valley’, so called because of the numerous 18th century dove cotes, or ‘pigeon houses’ , that pepper the valley walls. These were once a vital source of fertilizer for the local farmers who used the abundant droppings to enrich the soil. As the sun begins its journey towards the distant horizon the golden light of the late afternoon begins to infuse the surrounding rocks with an ever-changing pattern of hues and colours, a perfect end to our first day’s walking. Total walking: approx 5 hours.

Overnight Standard Hotel Included meals: Breakfast

Sometimes known as the ‘red hole’, Kizilcukur is probably the hottest valley in the region and hidden amongst its array of towering chimneys sits The Church with Grapes, whose fascinating frescoes depict the rich history of viticulture and fruit growing in the region. Wine has been produced in this area since the days of the Hittites and is renowned for its very sweet and heavy vintages. Later this morning we will reach the small village of Cavusin, nestling amongst the backdrop of a stragely eroded landscape on top of a now collapsed section of an early Christian cave city. The original cave dwellings have fallen prey to rockfalls, earthquakes and natural erosion, but the old city still presents a fascinating place to explore and its crumbling 5th century basilica, dedicted to St John the Baptist, is one of the oldest churches In the entire region and a particularly impressive repository of some pre-iconoclastic frescoes. An afternoon drive then brings us to the village of Pinarbasi (1550m), the trailhead for the hike into the Maden Valley and our gateway to the dramatic vistas of the Trans- Taurus Trek. After lunch we will begin the walk into the valley, a two hour hike that will bring us to our camp lying some 1900m above sea level. Total walking: approx 3 hours. Ascent 350m.

Overnight Simple Camping Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

The Aladag Mountains (Crimson Mountains) occupy a high massif on the eastern edge of the Taurus range, a region of towering ragged peaks, deep gorges and alpine lakes whose foothills are blanketed in mountain pastures and dotted with isolated communities of nomads whose traditions and ways still hold sway over these idyllic landscapes much as they have for generations. Trekking up the Maden Gorge this morning we may come across some of these nomads as they go about their business amongst the yayla (patureland) where we plan to stop for lunch. This afternoon then sees us ascending away from the river to our camp amidst the beautiful setting of Lake Karagöl, where the more hardy amongst you might like to enjoy a well-earned swim on arrival. This region is covered in fritillaries and grape hyacinths in the summer months and those still feeling energetic might like to continue past the lake towards the Sigirasan Pass for some superb views of Dipizgöl and the north face of Demirkazik. Total walking: approx 5 hours. Ascent 1000m.

Overnight Simple Camping Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

A quite stunning walk today takes us onto Lake Comce and then through the summer pastureland of the Akcay Valley towards the heights of Tekkekalesi Pass (3200m). From here we turn south, passing into the rugged Yedi Göller Basin (seven lakes), the setting for our 3rd night’s camp, amidst a panoramic vista of meltwater lakes and towering mountains. From the camp we can see the massive ridgelines of Mount Cagalinbasi (3622m) and Mount Direktas (3550m) , which present a spectacular backdrop to this lakeside setting and, as we settle into another night of camp life, there is every chance we may meet some of the local nomadic families that occupy this region during the summer months. Total walking: approx 6-7 hours. Ascent 900m/descent 500m.

Overnight Simple Camping Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

After breakfast we break camp and ascend to the summit of nearby Mount Embler (3723m), a non-technical return trip of some 4-5 hours which does nevertheless require some scrambling. The views from the top are however well worth the demanding climb, with panoramas out towards the southern face of Mount Demirkazik. Next we follow the Yalak Deresi Trail into a narrow canyon, before crossing the rugged Celkbuyduran Pass (3450m) and descending down through a landscape of sand coloured rock to our campsite at Sokullupinar (2000m), a beautiful location of fertile grassland that provides a marked contrast from the barren site of yesterday. Total walking: approx 5-6 hours. Ascent 430m/descent 1450m.

Overnight Simple Camping Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today is spent taking in the majestic splendours of the north face of Mount Demirkazik and the dramatic vistas of the Cimbar Canyon. Stopping for lunch at a local house in the village of Demirkazik affords us an opportunity to learn something of the culture and traditions of the region, as well as seeing for ourselves a way of life that has remained relatively unchanged for centuries. With luck we may also be able to see some of the local women spinning wool or working on looms, before we drive onto Kayseri for dinner. Departing very late from Kayseri we board the sleeper train to Erzurum. Total walking: approx 3 hours. Ascent 100m/descent 450m.

Overnight Basic Train Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Erzurum is the thriving hub of eastern Anatolia and one of the largest settlements in north-eastern Turkey. For centuries the town’s position in a windswept bowl at the foot of the eastern Anatolian Mountains made it an important centre for traders and armies heading into central Asia and the city itself passed through the hands of Byzantines, Persians, Arabs, Armenians, Seljuk Turks and Mongols, before becoming the northern outpost of the Ottomans. Arriving late this afternoon we will take time for a short tour of the city, visiting two of its remaining archaeological delights, the Cifte Minareli Medrese and the Ulu Cami Mosque. Built by the Seljuk Sultan Aladdin Keykubad II in 1253, the Medrese was built in honour of the sultan’s daughter. Once one of the largest seminaries in Anatolia, it is Erzurum’s most renowned building, with towering minarets and intricately carved stonework. Standing besides the seminary is the 12th century Ulu Cami (the Great Mosque), a large foreboding building of columns and arches, with a simple domed centrepiece. After our visit we will head to our hotel and overnight in Erzurum.

Overnight Standard Hotel Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

After breakfast this morning we transfer from Erzurum to visit the reputed site of Noah's Ark's resting place and visitors centre before heading to the village of Cevirme (2350m), the imposing sight of Mt Ararat dominating the surrounding plains as we drive towards Turkey’s highest peak. On arrival in Cevirme we begin our trek up to the base camp, heading north along a reasonable track as we begin climbing up the lower slopes of the volcano. Ararat has long been steeped in biblical lore and ancient myth. Believed to be the final resting place of Noah’s Ark it is also important in both Armenian and Arab folklore. To the Armenians it is the centre of their universe, from where their people descended to earth from its craggy slopes, whilst the Arabs believe it to be the roof of the world and the source of the life giving Tigris and Euphrates Rivers. Its mythical history has attracted adherents and opportunists for years, hopeful of finding evidence of the Ark’s final resting place, but this stark mountain, shrouded in mist and snow is loathe to give up its secrets easily. Total walking approx 4 hours (1100m ascent).

Overnight Basic Camping Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today is a chance for us to get used to the increasing altitude by climbing up to Camp II and then returning back down to the base camp for the evening. High Altitude Sickness can affect anyone, so it is important that we acclimatize properly before making our final trek up to the summit. For this reason we will spend our day gently traversing the craggy slopes up to the second camp, some 1000m above us. As we ascend the already sparse vegetation becomes even more rare, to be replaced by the ever present obsidian boulders. Reaching the camp we then descend back down the mountain to spend our second night at Camp I. Total walking approx 5-6 hours. Ascent/descent 1100m.

Overnight Basic Camping Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Returning to Camp II again this morning we will then begin our preparations for tomorrow’s ascent to the summit. This afternoon there will be a short course in the correct use of ice axes and crampons, after which, the rest of the day is then free to relax and enjoy the views down across the plains below. In 1876 the British climber and scholar James Bryce wrote, “Below and around, included in this single view, seemed to lie the whole cradle of the human race, from Mesopotamia in the south to the great wall of the Caucasus that covered the northern horizon”. Eloquent words to described a truly unique view. Total walking approx 4.5 hours. Ascent 100m.

Overnight Basic Camping Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

It is important that we make as early as start as possible for the summit, to improve our chances of a clear view from the top. Whilst the climb to the summit is not technical, as we venture farther up the mountain we reach the glaciers and perennial snows that make our ice axes and crampons a necessary addition. As we continue over the crisp snow we can see the western peak of Inonu ahead of us, whilst to the right the main summit rises above us. Following a gentle slope that runs beneath Inonu we finally reach the cone of the summit. From here, if the weather conditions are favourable, we should have a magnificent view across to the Caucasus Mountains to the north, the Kaçkar range and the line of volcanic peaks that run down to Lake Van and the Iranian border. Then we retrace our steps back down the mountain, passing beyond Camp II and returning to the Base Camp for the evening. Total walking approx 7-8 hours. Ascent 1065m/descent 1965m.

Overnight Basic Camping Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

From Base Camp we descend to Cevirme village again and transfer by bus to Dogubeyazit. One of the great historical highlights of our journey, and certainly one of the most enigmatic structures in the entire country is the Isak Pasha Palace, a fusion of architectural styles that is an eclectic mix of Armenian, Georgian, Ottoman, Persian and Selçuk influences. Built in the 18th century by the Çildiro lu Lord Isak Pasha, this vast and dramatic fortress guarded the ancient trade routes and its occupants grew rich on the spoils. However, no comfort was spared the caravans who passed through and though now in ruins, the opulence of the decoration and the facilities are still resplendent to this day. It is said that the Pasha, on completion of the project, chopped off the hands of the Armenian architect who designed it, to prevent him building anything similar for another chieftain. We pay a visit to this most remarkable of structures, along with the nearby bas-reliefs of what was once believed to have been an Urartian Citadel, dating from the 9th century BC. We then depart Dogubeyazit, heading south towards the vast inland sea of Van Gölü and one the most important cities of the old Vaspurakan region. Seven times the size of Lake Geneva this is the largest lake in Turkey and the largest saline lake in the world and, although its alkaline waters are denser than seawater, it still supports several species of fish. The city itself has a rich and turbulent history. Once the capital of the Hurrian kingdom and later the centre of the Urartian Empire, it prospered during a 300 year period that saw its people’s skills as craftsmen, artisans and engineers reach a pinnacle. Colonisation by Armenians, Byzantines, Selcuk and Ottoman Turks saw its influence fluctuate, until the Russian occupation of WWI and the bloody reprisals that followed, which saw the old city razed to the ground and its Armenian citizens massacred and dispersed. Total walking approx 2 hours. Descent 1100m.

Overnight Standard Hotel Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

This morning we fly to Istanbul, swapping the landscapes of Eastern Turkey for the vibrant clamour of one of the world’s most historic and culturally fascinating cities and an afternoon’s walking tour of some of its many highlights. Formerly known as Constantinople, the vibrant centre of the old Byzantine and Ottoman Empires, Istanbul is a chaotic entrepot of cultures, history and architecture that sits resplendently overlooking the green waters of the Bosphorous. One of the most enigmatic cities in the world, Istanbul’s streets are filled to overflowing with markets and palaces, churches and mosques and our tour this afternoon will give us something of a feel for this dynamic and unique city. Much of the city’s main architectural sites lie within the area of Old Stamboul, where we can find Sultanhammet Square, the old heart of the Byzantine city. Walking through the square we can enjoy its gardens, or sit and reflect upon the magnificent architectural gems of its Byzantine church and Ottoman mosques, testaments to the two great empires that once ruled this city. We also visit the remarkable Blue Mosque, believed by many to represent the zenith of Ottoman architecture and the Topkapi Palace, built by Mehmet II and the cultural centre of the Ottoman Empire for centuries. (Depending on flight times this may occur tomorrow morning rather than this afternoon)

Overnight Standard Hotel Included meals: Breakfast

Included meals: Breakfast