Island power in the Azores

Written by Gina Lawrence - Digital Content Executive at Explore Worldwide
Published 27 June 2025
In partnership with Visit Portugal

The Azores are islands forged by volcanoes and shaped by water. Each one was born in a crucible of tectonic energy and lives on a tripwire, with smoking fumaroles, giant green-filled craters and black sand beaches all just part of the scenery. It’s this that appeals to me; an ever-changing landscape, feeling the ground alive is beneath my feet.

Despite this youthful exuberance, there’s something prehistoric feeling about São Miguel’s lush greenery – something of the Jurassic in the curl of endless ferns, voluminous glossy leaves the size of my head, and the dappled light from the canopy above. Each one is rich, verdant shades of emerald and moss, vying for attention like indecisive colour swatches on a wall.

It requires no Sherlock Holmes levels of discovery to see why it is known as Green Island. Each island has been assigned a colour, our tour leader explains, and over the next two weeks we hop between four of the Azores’ nine islands seeing how each earned its moniker. There’s São Miguel, the green island; São Jorge, the brown island; Pico, the grey island; and Faial, the blue island. It's reminiscent of a 90’s pop group – perhaps their slogan would be island power.

If each island has its own colour, then each walk has its own identity too. Over the course of the two weeks, each walk reveals a new facet to the islands. From steep zigzags that revealed the coastline in increments on São Jorge, to the sudden scent of apple mint crushed beneath our boots on São Miguel, or the charming red windmills amidst the volcanic rock vineyards of Pico, each one was unique.

My two favourites almost bookended the trip: a leisurely lakeside stroll on São Miguel that brought us out by pocket of steaming fumaroles and calderas, and a dramatic volcanic crater rim on Faial, where the mist rippling over the ridge added an eerie, atmospheric drama to the day.

Like any island trip, there’s a lot of time spent on boats. I board four vessels in my time here – two interisland ferries, one catamaran and one zodiac, the last one a first for me in the inflatable rib. The last two are optional excursions in search of the resident marine life that thrives in the plentiful waters around the archipelago.

The Azores are a shining example of how humans interacting with nature can do a full 180 in just a couple of generations. Historically, this was a whale hunting area. Everyone relied on the whales as a resource, on a tiny island where income was scare and life was hard, and Pico sailors were known as the bravest and most ferocious of the hunters. This is far from ancient history; the last whale to be slain on Pico was in 1987. Given that a sperm whale can live up to 70 years, it’s fair to deduce that there are whales in these waters who remember that time, perhaps have had lucky escapes.

It's phenomenal to think that in just a few generations, almost no time at all, the island residents have gone from predators to protectors. Our skipper for our zodiac excursion is descended from a long line of whale hunters. His grandfather hunted them, speared them and sold their body parts to survive.

This man lives an altogether different life dependent on the whales - proud of his role as custodian and guide, able to earn a living from these creatures in an entirely different way to his grandfather and great grandfather before him.

The Azores has more surprises up its sleeves. I had no idea that it was famous for pineapples – but here they are, served up in many weird and wonderful combinations. Black pudding and pineapple crops on the menus more than once, and at Europe’s only tea plantation we’re served slabs of pineapple cake the size of a small boat to accompany the tea tasting.

As a tea lover, this was a real treat – and another first for me, visiting a tea plantation. I always assumed I’d have to go much further afield to wander along the striated rows and see the tea being processed, but no, here it was in Europe all along. As I write this, a steaming cup of green tea flavoured with pineapple and cinnamon sits on my desk, bringing back the memories beside me – each one conjuring a smile.

Fish and seafood: It’ll be no surprise that islands boast incredible seafood, but what stood out to me was the variety – always a catch of the day, often a name I don’t recognise. A particular favourite was veja, or parrot fish, a firm white fish I ate two ways – once filleted and coated in crispy almonds, and once grilled whole with a vinegary local dressing.

Beef: Cattle are a cornerstone of agrarian life on the Azores. São Miguel has several steakhouses showcasing Azorian beef, fattier than its foreign counterparts, and the owner of the restaurant we go to proudly shows us each cut he has available and encourages us to pick our steak, which is served family style on huge platters.

Cheese: Rich and creamy, there’s no shortage of cheeses in the Azores. It’s impossible to pick a favourite, but strong contenders are a very mild soft cheese served with spicy red pepper relish, and the smooth São Jorge cheeses that are served with unctuous local honey.

Visiting the Azores in the two shoulder seasons (spring and autumn) reveals a whole new side to the islands.

• Weather: From April to June, the daytime temperatures can range from 17°c to 21°c. In September and October they hover between 21°c to 24°c. Bonus: the ocean stays warm enough for swimming well into the autumn!
• Crowds: The Azores are popular with hikers, but the post-summer lull means fewer people on the trails – perfect for peaceful exploration.
• Landscapes: Spring brings a burst of colourful flora, while autumn keeps the islands lush and green, thanks to mild rainfall and warm temperatures.
• Hiking: Autumn is especially rewarding. With clearer skies and cooler air, the views are sharper and the trails more inviting – ideal for both seasoned hikers and beginners.